A few kilometers from Otumba, in the State of Mexico, there is a 16th-century convent that holds a surprise beneath its foundations: it was built on the base of a pre-Hispanic pyramid.
This is the Former Convent of Oxtotipac, a former Franciscan complex that also stands out for another peculiarity. Its staircases and doors are particularly small, and some of its ceilings are very low.
A convent built on top of a pre-Hispanic pyramid
The history of this site dates back far beyond the viceregal era. Otumba and Oxtotipac were politically and commercially significant as far back as pre-Hispanic times, due, among other things, to their proximity to Teotihuacán and Texcoco.
After the Conquest, the Franciscans arrived. According to the INAH, in 1575 they founded the Convent of the Immaculate Conception and the Church of San Nicolás Oxtotipac on the foundation of an ancient pyramid.
There is even a local legend that claims the remains of Xólotl and Nopaltzin, ancient Chichimeca rulers, lie beneath the foundation. This is not a confirmed archaeological discovery, but rather a story that has been associated with the site for years.
Small doors, a punishment cell, and a baptismal font from 1570
As you walk through the convent, you’ll quickly notice its size. Narrow hallways connect spaces such as the old kitchen and the refectory, while a small staircase leads to the six cells on the upper floor.
A tiny punishment cell also survives, used by the monks to perform penance.
In the middle of the cloister, you’ll find another unique detail: a monolithic fountain decorated with flowers and a double Franciscan cord. Near the church, there is also a baptismal font carved from a single piece of stone and dated 1570.
The complex retains its original wall, four ancient chapels, and murals in some of the cells. During the viceregal era, this area was also a stopover for travelers journeying between the capital and Veracruz.
Dates: Open Tuesday through Sunday
Location: Plaza de la Cultura 5, Oxtotipac, Otumba, State of Mexico
Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Admission: $80 for Mexican nationals and $145 for foreigners; free for Mexicans on Sundays
